Champagne

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Overview

In terms of styles, champagne is produced as vintage or non-vintage. Vintage is the product of a specific year whereas non-vintage is a blend of several. Then there are Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs and Rose champagne. Blanc de Noirs is made from only black grape varieties (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) and Blanc de Blancs is made from only white grape varieties (Chardonnay). Rose champagne can be made from any combination of the three grape varieties, but usually contains a proportion of black grapes, and gets its colour either from blending with red wine or from leaving some of the black grape skins in contact with the must for a period.

Finally, champagne is made with varying degrees of sweetness, which is adjusted by addition of dosage immediately before bottling. Most common are the brut and extra brut styles, however off-dry (sec) and sweeeter (doux) styles also exist.

Typical blends and winemaking

In terms of typical blends of grape varieties, champagne is blended from varying proportions of the three main grape varieties – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier – each individual producer will decide the proportion of each grape variety that he/she wants to include in a given blend; this may also sometimes be affected by vintage conditions. Chardonnay tends to contribute orchard fruit, stone fruit, citrus, and a mineral elegant touch, whereas Pinot Noir often gives more red fruits, forest floor and earthy depth, and finally Pinot Meunier adds a more immediate and forward yellow fruited touch.

A majority of champagnes are fermented in inert vessels such as stainless steel vats, but a few are fermented in small oak barrels which adds a creamy integration and mid palate weight. All champagnes go through the second, bubble-forming, fermentation in bottle and ageing on yeast lees – referred to as autolysis – which gives the yeasty, bready aromas and flavours. Generally, a champagne must spend at least 18-24 months on the lees to start taking on noticeable autolytic characters.

Typical aromas and flavours

Orchard fruit and stone fruit, citrus, bread, yeast, toast.

Food matching

Regarding food matches, it feels almost needless to start by saying that all styles of champagne are, because of the high acidity and tense fruit texture, always a great aperitif. But beyond the aperitif is where it gets interesting, because champagne is a surprisingly versatile drink to pair with food.

Blanc de blancs tend to pair well with caviar, oysters, meaty seafood like scallops, crab, king prawns, lobster – lightly cooked but also raw as for example a classic scallop ceviche – but also with creamy white cow’s milk and goat’s cheeses.

Blanc de noirs goes well with foods like steak tartare, grilled or roasted chicken, caviar, meaty fish like dover sole, black cod and halibut, pasta and risottos with mushrooms, and roasted lamb; Vintage blanc de noirs because of their earthy depth goes well with aged hard cow’s milk cheese.

Rose champagne also goes well with beef tataki but is like a match made in heaven for smoked salmon, roasted quail, and strawberry desserts; Vintage Roses especially complements game such as roast pheasant or venison well.

Demi-sec and doux champagnes go especially well with fresh fruit desserts or panna cotta, crème brulee styles.