Christmas is a traditional religious festival but in more recent times, while there remains a religious element, it is as much about getting family and friends together. The giving and receiving of presents, the joy of children, various traditions, memories, games and of course, fabulous food and drink.
Growing up in Australia in my youth, Christmas food was very traditionally “English” – the full roast and all the trimmings, lashings of gravy, steamed puddings and the like. Not exactly appropriate for a hot sunny day with the pool or a game of backyard cricket in store. Times have certainly changed (as far as the food being served) down under.
Back in the Northern Hemisphere we hope for a cold but dry Christmas and maybe some of the elusive snow to give us a “white Christmas” like the ones depicted in Christmas cards. It is often a meal of many courses and one that extends longer than most.
Wherever we are, much thought and planning goes into the main event; Christmas Dinner, whether it be on Christmas Eve, as is more the European way, or Christmas Day as it often is here in the UK. It can be fabulous, overdone, stressful or all of the above. But it is also a time when wine lovers often bring their best or favourite wines to the table. It is one of those special occasions.
So we thought we would have a little fun and also bring a little structure into the planning of the dinner and the great wines that people might care to match with it. Hence a little play on words to present you with the Twelve Wines of Christmas and how they might match to twelve festive “courses”. Naturally we are not suggesting a 12 course meal or consuming 12 different wines. But you may be thinking about a few of these courses and what wines you may want to pair with them.
The purpose of our Twelve Wines of Christmas is simply to give you some food (and wine) for thought and to help get the best out of both. Now matching food to wine and indeed wine to food is a complex discussion and as many have found, it often needs a book to discuss and even then, there will be many questions.
Remember this is about having fun, please do go online and have a look at what the suggested food and wine pairings are. We are a fine wine merchant, so our emphasis is on the best matches. This is a conversation starter not a definitive guide so there’s as many opinions as there are possibilities, and many, many more than what we suggest. Our list is not comprehensive.
Here are our twelve grapes / styles for Christmas feast:
- Champagne
- Riesling
- Chardonnay
- Pinot Noir
- Cabernet Blends (Bordeaux)
- Cabernet Blends (Best of the Rest)
- Syrah & Blends
- Tempranillo & Blends
- Nebbiolo
- Sangiovese & Blends
- Sweet White Wines
- Vintage Port
# 1 Champagne and well…anything
Well we’re almost serious. Champagne is one of the most versatile of wines and could almost be served with any part of Christmas Dinner. But for the purpose of this exercise, we think that Champagne is the best way we know to start your Christmas celebration, be that with your canapés or simply to toast the occasion. Lily Bollinger was once famously quoted about many (many) reasons to drink Champagne (google it) but we think it should be a part of the occasion.
Typical blends and styles
In terms of typical blends of grape varieties, champagne is made from varying proportions of the three main grape varieties – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier – each individual producer will decide the proportion of each grape variety that they want to include in a given blend; this may also sometimes be affected by vintage conditions.
Chardonnay tends to contribute orchard fruit, stone fruit, citrus, and a mineral elegant touch, whereas Pinot Noir often gives more red fruits, forest floor and earthy depth, and finally Pinot Meunier adds a more immediate and forward yellow fruited touch.
Food Pairing
It feels almost needless to start by saying that all styles of champagne are, because of the high acidity and tense fruit texture, always a great aperitif. But beyond the aperitif is where it gets interesting, because champagne is a surprisingly versatile drink to pair with food.
Caviar stands out as a natural and classic companion to champagne and is often served at Christmas with smoked salmon on blinis with crème fraiche. These petite, saline fish eggs exude equal measures of extravagance, with their inherent saltiness and subtle oiliness perfectly complementing the mineral characteristics found in Champagne.
Oysters and champagne are also renowned for their excellent pairing, characterised by a seamless blend of flavours. The subtle, briny profile of oysters harmonises with the lively effervescence and crisp acidity of champagne. This combination enhances the succulence of the oyster, allowing its delicate taste to shine alongside the gentle fruitiness of the champagne.
Deeply rooted in culinary tradition, this pairing has become a symbol of opulence and festivity, offering a refined experience that transcends individual components.
Champagne tends to be best served well chilled between 6 - 10°C.
Our teams favourite pairings with champagne at Christmas are:
Kathrine Larsen MS - “Champagne with oysters because of the minerality (chiselled stony citrus) of the champagne (perhaps ideally a Blanc de Blancs zero dosage) which complements the saline character of the oysters while the bubbles of the champagne and high level of acidity balances that creamy texture of the oysters”.
James McCormac - “Champagne and caviar - a once a year tradition”
William Kelley - “It has to be smoked salmon blinis with crème fraiche and caviar, a firm favourite in the Kelley household”.
Our recommendations are:
Value option
1.Louis Roederer, Collection 242 Brut, Champagne, NV
'Just right' option
2. Pol Roger, Blanc de Blanc Brut, Champagne, 2015
'Push the boat out' option
3. Louis Roederer, Cristal, Champagne, 2012
# 2 Riesling and shellfish
The amazing versatility of Riesling lies in its ability to gracefully balance sweetness and acidity, making it a wine that harmonises superbly with an array of dishes, from those featuring cinnamon, nutmeg, or ginger to rich, festive desserts and shellfish.
Typical blends and styles
Riesling is mostly unblended and produced as a 100% varietal wine. It is often fermented at mid to cooler temperatures, and without any malolactic fermentation, to preserve the racy acidity and crisp fruit flavours. For Shellfish we recommend the drier styles, like those from Alsace, the Mosel trockens or kabinetts for a touch of sweetness.
Food Pairing
Riesling's exceptional compatibility with uncooked seafood, such as oysters and shellfish, lies in its vibrant acidity and characteristic sweetness. The crisp acidity of Riesling acts as a palate cleanser, cutting through the richness of raw seafood and refreshing the taste buds. Simultaneously, the subtle sweetness inherent in many Rieslings complements the briny and delicate flavours of oysters and shellfish.
Riesling tends to be best served well chilled between 6-10°C.
Our teams favourite pairings with riesling at Christmas are:
Kathrine Larsen MS - “Riesling with gravadlax with sweet mustard sauce. The acidity of the Riesling balances the sweetness of the mustard sauce, and the sometimes smoky minerality of the riesling accentuates the smoked salmon”.
James McCormac - “Riesling and rock oysters - memories of the fabulous Sydney Rocks”
William Kelley - “Spiced ginger-glazed ham and riesling pair well together”.
Our recommendations are:
Value option
1.J.J. Prum, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Wehlen, 2021
'Just right' option
2. Maison Trimbach, Alsace Riesling Frederic Emile, Alsace, 2016
'Push the boat out' option
3. Maison Trimbach, Clos Sainte Hune, Alsace, 2016
# 3 Chardonnay (White Burgundy) with seared scallops
Chardonnay is a very versatile grape which can be paired with entrées based on seafood such as lobster but it pairs equally well with lighter meats such as chicken or our recommendation today - seared scallops.
Typical blends and styles
In the fine wine category, Chardonnay is always unblended with other varieties.
Chardonnay is undoubtedly most famous for its home in Burgundy, and the variety of styles produced here from the steely and more austere Chablis to the more nutty and richly textured wines of the Corton Charlemagne, Montrachet and Meursault sub regions – these are some of the finest, most in demand, white wines in the world.
Food Pairing
Chardonnay pairs exceptionally well with seared scallops due to its versatile and complex flavour profile. The buttery and creamy texture of many Chardonnay wines complements the delicate sweetness and succulence of seared scallops, creating a lovely balance on the palate. The wine's notes of ripe fruits, such as apple and pear, can enhance the overall flavour, while any oak aging adds nuanced layers of vanilla and toast.
Chardonnay tends to be best served chilled between 10-13°C.
Our teams favourite pairings with chardonnay (white burgundy) at Christmas are:
Kathrine Larsen MS - “Chardonnay and lobster with saffron mayo. Such as for example Meursault or Australian Chardonnay with oak. The creaminess of the wine goes well with the fleshy texture of the lobster; the saffron mayo will accentuate the vanilla and spice character of the wine.”.
James McCormac - “Chardonnay and lobster quenelle, a traditional French dish which pairs beautifully ”
William Kelley - “I prefer a white with my Christmas turkey or chicken and it’s usually a white burgundy - a match made in heaven!”.
Our recommendations are:
Value option
1.Bouchard Pere & Fils, Meursault Les Clous, Meursault, 2020
'Just right' option
2.Dom. William Fevre, Les Preuses Grand Cru, Chablis, 2020
'Push the boat out' option
3. Dom. Leflaive, Les Pucelles Premier Cru, Puligny-Montrachet, 2020
# 4 Pinot Noir and duck
Pinot noir is a rather enigmatic grape which is notoriously difficult to grow and get the best out of. Traditionally the well known grape of red burgundy, it has also been developed successfully in the U.S.A, Australia and New Zealand among other countries in the new world. In general terms, Burgundian pinot noir has tended to be more elegant and less full bodied that its new world counterparts but that difference in recent years is starting to narrow.
Typical blends and styles
Pinot Noir is always produced on its own as a varietal wine and is known as one of the best red grape varieties for expressing the terroir in which it was grown, no doubt to an extent given its thin skins and transparent appeal. Occasionally whole bunch fermented and allowed a period of cold extraction before fermentation starts to enhance its red colour, Pinot Noir has great affinity with the subtle spice and phenolic textural lift which French oak barrels can contribute.
Food Pairing
Pinot Noirs tend to go well with simply cooked meats, especially without too much sauce or heavy charring, as well as a variety of game, like pheasant, grouse and duck breast – for example roasted duck or goose with cranberry sauce for the festive season, or duck confit with caramelized orange. There are various food pairings with pinot noir but it is often the case that great pinot noir needs a little attention and in our view the food shouldn’t distract too much from the wine.
Pinot Noir tends to be best served slightly chilled between 13-16°C.
Our teams favourite pairings with pinot noir at Christmas are:
Kathrine Larsen MS - “Pinot Noir from burgundy or California/Australia/Oregon/New Zealand with duck, chestnuts and cranberry sauce. The freshness of the Pinot noir cuts through the richness of the duck while the earthiness of the chestnuts will accentuate the forest floor / moss character of top Pinot noir and the cranberry sauce matches the red berry universe of the wine”.
James McCormac - “At Christmas time, I find great pinot noir a wonderful pair with roast turkey wrapped with prosciutto but whatever the dish, pinot is always on our Christmas Day menu.”
William Kelley - “I’m particularly fond of pigeon with a silky elegant pinot.”
Our recommendations are:
Value option
1. Joseph Drouhin, Clos de Chenes Premier Cru, Volnay, 2016
'Just right' option
2. Dom. Faiveley, Clos des Cortons Monopole Grand Cru, Corton Rouge, 2015
'Push the boat out' option
3. Roche de Bellene, Chambertin Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru, Gevrey Chambertin, 2015
# 5 Cabernet Blends (Bordeaux) with roast beef
Our food pairing for # 5 and # 6 are both roast beef, however it should be noted that the # 5 Bordeaux blends are more classically styled whereas # 6 ‘Best of the Rest’ tend to reflect a slightly richer style of cabernet sauvignon. With that said, choose your favourite style.
Typical blends and styles
Cabernet Sauvignon is used in its own right and in blends. Key typical blends are:
-
Bordeaux blend (Left Bank)*
-
Cabernet Sauv-Merlot-Cab Franc-Petit Verdot
-
Cabernet Sauvignon (100%)
*At The Perfect Bottle, we categorise a Bordeaux blend as either Left Bank (Cabernet Sauvignon led) or Right Bank (Merlot led).
Being the dominant grape variety in all of the first and second growth estates on Bordeaux’ Left Bank means that this grape variety has been planted the world over. In Bordeaux, the Graves and Medoc are the most successful areas for Cabernet Sauvignon, to a large degree because of the gravel in the soil ensuring good drainage.
Food Pairing
Given Cabernet Sauvignon’s firm structure, especially when from a moderate climate such as Bordeaux, these are wines that go well with meat such as roast or grilled beef, veal, and venison, but particularly well with lamb with herbs like thyme and rosemary.
Cabernet Bordeaux blends pair exceptionally well with roast beef due to their robust tannins, bold fruit flavours, and complex structure, which complement the hearty and savoury nature of the meat.
Bordeaux Blends tend to be best served chilled between 15-18°C.
Our teams favourite pairings with Cabernet Blends (Bordeaux) are:
James McCormac - “You can’t go past a top Bordeaux with Christmas roast beef and yorkshire pudding and if there was ever time to bring a first growth or a super second to the table, this would be the time. Last year it was Chateau Palmer 2010 and it will take something special to beat that this year.”
William Kelley - “I’d been doing a bushcraft course in the Ashdown forest and the first meal we had afterwards was Venison ‘bangers and mash’ with a Chateau Brane Cantenac, the violet aromas were exceptional.”
Our recommendations are:
Value option
1. Ch. Brane-Cantenac, 2nd Growth Grand Cru Classe, Margaux, 2009
'Just right' option
2. Ch. Lynch-Bages, 5th Growth Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac, 2005
'Push the boat out' option
3. Ch. Latour, 1st Growth Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac, 2009
# 6 Cabernet Blends (Best of the Rest) with roast beef
For # 6 we venture to the New World where cabernet blends tend to be slightly richer in style.
Typical blends and styles
Tuscany is another European source of fine Cabernet Sauvignon based wines, especially the so-called ‘Super Tuscans’, for which Sassicaia was the pioneer.
In the New World, the best examples of Cabernet Sauvignon come out of Northern California, first and foremost, especially sub appellations Napa Valley and Sonoma County, from where the variety expresses a polished opulent ultra-ripe and imposing style, either varietal or blended with Merlot, sometimes other Bordeaux varieties.
In South America, Chile and Argentina are other prime sources of the variety. Chile is known for fruit-forward and approachable, chocolate scented styles, while Argentina’s expressions are often more sturdy restrained and sometimes dusty.
Finally, in Australia we find powerful and refreshing, blackcurrant and eucalyptus scented fine examples from Coonawarra, and further west in Margaret River complex and elegant examples of Cabernet Sauvignon are the rule.
Food Pairing
These wines tend to go with similar pairings as our Bordeaux Blend options above, you can also consider Cabernet Sauvignon blends especially those from the non-Bordeaux regions (like Tuscany, California, Chile and Australia) which tend to go well with richer, more flavourfully accessorised and sauce rich foods, older vintages are best enjoyed with a leaner and simpler accompaniment such as for example beef filet with truffle and salsify.
Cabernet Sauvignon Blends from the New World tend to be best served chilled between 15-18°C.
Our teams favourite pairings with Cabernet Blends (Best of the Rest) are:
James McCormac - “A new world cabernet like Jospeh Phelps Insignia was a real surprise when tasted recently and would certainly be on the shortlist for a festive sip, it reflected the style of the best Bordeaux with a touch more richness. Paired with pan fried fillet of beef with a mushroom and madeira sauce.”
William Kelley - “A powerful Napa Valley cabernet with a homemade burger with chipotle sauce, not your usual combination but a delicious one.”
Our recommendations are:
Value option
1. Moss Wood, Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, 2009
'Just right' option
2. Almaviva Winery, Vina Almaviva, Maipo Valley, 2017
'Push the boat out' option
3. Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, Bolgheri, 2013
# 7 Syrah & Blends with grilled steak
Our food pairing for Syrah & blends is grilled steak. Syrah, a bold and robust red wine, often features dark fruit flavours, such as blackberry and plum, along with spicy and peppery notes. These elements harmonise with the smoky, charred, and savoury profile of a grilled steak. The wine's robust tannins can also stand up to the richness and protein in the meat, providing a balanced and delectable combination.
Typical blends and styles
Until the late 20th century Syrah was grown mainly in the northern Rhone valley, but then started to gain ground in especially Australia, where today it is the most important red grape variety and often called Shiraz. Both of Australia’s finest red wines are based on Syrah: Grange and Hill of Grace, but the grape variety is also produced in a variety of ripeness levels from a variety of Australian climates including warm and sunny Barossa and Hunter Valley but also cool higher altitude Grampians along with also Canberra District.
Viognier is sometimes blended in with Syrah/Shiraz in very small proportions (less than 10%) to give a lift and touch of floral appeal to the red wine – this is traditionally seen in the Cote Rotie appellation of the Northern Rhone, but also with some Australia top producers such as for example Clonakilla in Canberra District.
Typical aromas and flavours are blueberry, plum, tobacco, tanned leather, pepper & smoky aromas, liquorice notes.
Food Pairing
Classic food matches for Syrah include grilled or barbecued steak and beef, but also Wagyu and lamb, with dried herbs, black olives, and mushrooms. The richer cuts tend to go better with the riper warmer climate styles of Syrah whereas the more elegant cuts such as filet will complement the European, especially Northern Rhone styles better.
Whereas younger vintages of Syrah tend to go well with richer, more flavourfully accessorized and sauce rich foods, older vintages are best enjoyed with a leaner and simpler accompaniment such as for example beef or lamb filet with truffle and salsify.
Generally versatile wines, the best Syrahs can be enjoyed after dinner on their own.
Syrah and Blends tend to be best served between 15-18°C.
Our teams favourite pairings with Syrah and blends are:
James McCormac - “At Christmas time, I’m more likely than not to open up a classic Penfolds Grange Bin 95 paired with grilled steak, dauphinoise potato and snow peas. Grange is tremendously consistent with outstanding recent vintages being the 2010, 2008 and 2004.”
William Kelley - “It’s where it all started with me, a 2010 Penfolds Bin 389 paired with grilled sirloin steak, chips, creamed spinach and a peppercorn sauce, I get butterflies writing about it!”
Our recommendations are:
Value option
1. Penfolds, Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz, South Australia, 2010
'Just right' option
2. Dom. Auguste Clape, Cornas 2016
'Push the boat out' option
3. E. Guigal, La Turque, Cote Rotie 2010
# 8 Tempranillo & Blends with roast lamb
For Tempranillo & blends we recommend pairing these with roast lamb, a very traditional pairing for this variety.
Typical blends and styles
When produced the traditional way, in Rioja, Tempranillo would be aged for many years in small American oak barrels (the vanilla, coconut flavours of American barrels thought to enhance Tempranillo’s flavours), and not released until mature, such as for example the Gran Reservas. Increasingly, a more modern highly concentrated and deep fruited style is becoming more common, for which grapes are often sourced from single vineyards and wines aged in new small French oak barrels and released onto the market after only a couple of years oak ageing.
Typical aromas and flavours are cherry, blackberry, cedar, tobacco, prunes, chocolate, leather, dill and prunes.
Food Pairing
Medium bodied styles of Tempranillo, such as many traditional styles from Rioja, can complement any type of pork or lamb dish, whether roasted or grilled, and served with a variety of accessories and sauces. They are also surprisingly great companions for spicy and strong-tasting foods such as some Asian or Moroccan cuisines, barbecue, paella, game, and fish stews. Hard sheep cheeses such as Pecorino and Manchego also work well with red Rioja.
The fuller-bodied and more concentrated styles of Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero, Toro, and modern styles of Rioja go well with red meats or lamb, either roasted or grilled, and will also complement venison and a variety of barbecues well. Charcuterie such as chorizo is another obvious companion as is grilled or roasted vegetables, such as mushrooms or aubergines.
Tempranillo & Blends tend to be best served between 15-18°C.
Our teams favourite pairings with Tempranillo and blends are:
James McCormac - “I’ve tried all of these recommendations below this year and they were all brilliant in their own right. But I have to say my favourite was the Murrieta but especially the 2009 which is in the same league as the wonderful 2010. Roast lamb infused with garlic and tarragon is the ideal pairing”
William Kelley - “Grilled lamb, padron peppers and aoli flatbread paired with the Artadi, Valdegines - unreal.”
Our recommendations are:
Value option
1.Artadi, Valdegines, Rioja Alavesa, 2016
'Just right' option
2. Marques de Murrieta, Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta, 2010
'Push the boat out' option
3. Vega Sicilia, Unico Gran Reserva, Ribera del Duero, 2010
# 9 Nebbiolo with pigeon or duck
At the end of the year, we recommend pairing Nebbiolo with pigeon or duck – both are richly textured wild meats which works wonders with Nebbiolo’s pronounced tannins and freshness.
Typical blends and styles
Nebbiolo is always made as a varietal wine. Long post-fermentation maceration is common to extract and develop the grape variety’s high level of tannins. For maturation, a variety of oak barrels, including large, seasoned Slavonian oak casks and small French oak barrels are popular choices, because of the micro-oxygenating effect which helps soften Nebbiolo’s tannins.
Typical aromas and flavours are cherry, rose, leather, cherry(sour), anise, cranberry, black tea, leather, tar.
Food Pairing
Top Nebbiolo works well with a variety of meats like filet steak, Wagyu, Kobi, and, in the autumn and at Christmas especially, with game including duck, pigeon, hare, and pheasant. Due to the subtle herbaceous and earthy aromatics, Nebbiolo also tends to work extremely well with tomato-based sauced, and grilled Mediterranean vegetables, mushrooms, and in particular truffles.
Steak tartare also works wonders alongside a good Nebbiolo as does risotto and pasta dishes especially when accessorized with some of the before mentioned. Mild cheeses like hard cow’s, sheep’s or goat’s milk are also a good match. Seasonally in the Piemonte region, the white truffle from Alba obviously reigns supreme and any dish that can possible be accessorized with this heaven scent mushroom will be, including but not limited to pastas, risottos, eggs, toast, poultry, beef, and meaty white fish like monkfish.
Nebbiolo tends to be best served between 16-18°C.
Our teams favourite pairings with Nebbiolo at Christmas are:
Kathrine Larsen MS - “Tagliatelle with white truffle is for me the perfect seasonal pairing for a top Nebbiolo. The punchy aroma of the white truffle from Alba will accentuate the truffle-y and earthy character of the wine, while the firm and pronounced tannins of the wine will go very well with the texture of the pasta.”
James McCormac - “Had to argue with Kathrine’s perfect recommendation here. If I was going to go the extra mile for the white truffle I would make sure the wine measures up to the sense of occasion – either a Roagna, Paje Vecchie Viti Barbaresco 2015 or a Gaja Barolo Sperss 2015 come to mind from wines I have tried this year. That would be perfect.”
William Kelley - “Squab pigeon stuffed with squash and chestnuts, nebbiolo’s structure stands up to the richness of the pigeon really well.”
Our recommendations are:
Value option
1. Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco DOCG, Barbaresco, 2016
'Just right' option
2. Luciano Sandrone, Aleste, Barolo, 2015
'Push the boat out' option
3. Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Monfortino Riserva, 2008
# 10 Sangiovese & Blends with mushroom risotto with truffle shavings
At the end of the year, we recommend pairing Sangiovese and blends with pastas and risottos garnished with black Tuscan truffle, and wild boar or Tuscan sausage.
Typical blends and styles
Sangiovese is often produced as a varietal wine (including Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile which both have to be 100% of the grape variety) but also sometimes is blended with a proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and sometimes Merlot, - which are permitted to a smaller degree in traditional appellations (such as for example Chianti) and to a larger extent for the so-called ‘Super-Tuscan’ vino da tavolas.
Maturation vessels for Sangiovese varies but a variety of oak barrels are common, as they allow the relatively softening effect of Sangiovese’s firm tannins. Traditional producers use large, seasoned barrels, whereas producers with a more modern approach use smaller French oak barrels. Oftentimes a combination is used by the same producer.
Typical aromas and flavours are dark cherry, rose, leather, roasted tomato, savoury flavours, balsamic, espresso, and oregano.
Food Pairing
Sangiovese based wines – such as for example Brunello and Chianti - tend to go incredibly well with roast lamb especially when served with Mediterranean herbs and garlic, but also with a variety of game, roast veal, and Sangiovese’s acidity can really add a mouth-watering lift to richer meat cuts such as T-bone and ribeye. Italian pasta and risotto dishes are also wonderful matches especially when made with mushrooms, truffle, but also with Tuscan sausage or wild boar stuffing. At Christmas, the black Christmas truffle is frequently used to accessorise a variety of foods.
Sangiovese based Super Tuscan blends complements a variety of meat cuts, but the fuller bodied styles goes especially well with richer meats such as Wagyu and Kobe. Overall, most Tuscan red wines pair well with local Italian cheese especially the hard cow- and sheep’s milk-based ones, such as Pecorino, but also with Spain’s Manchego, and similar styles from France and Switzerland – cheese is a particularly popular pairing at Christmas as well.
Sangiovese & Blends tend to be best served between 16-18°C.
Our teams favourite pairings with Sangiovese and blends at Chrstmas are:
Kathrine Larsen MS - “Pigeon risotto with Tuscan black truffle is a wonderful local autumnal pairing for Sangiovese and blends. sangiovese’s rustic character will pair well with pigeon’s gamey-ness, while the freshness and fine tannins of the wine will counteract the richness of the risotto, and the earthiness of the wine will be accentuated by the truffle flavours of the dish.”
James McCormac - “I love Sangiovese and also, when blended with a little Cabernet, as is the case for Tignanello, the wines take on a little more structure and complexity, especially with a few years maturity . A mushroom risotto with a little Italian wild meat would be a great match to a 2007 Tignanello I had a few months back.”
William Kelley - “Sangiovese with caramelised onion sausages, fennel, lemon, garlic, white wine, cream, basil and nutmeg rigatoni. Mouth-watering.”
Our recommendations are:
Value option
1. Casanova di Neri, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Brunello di Montalcino, 2010
'Just right' option
2. Valdicava, Madonna del Piano Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino, 2007
'Push the boat out' option
3. Biondi-Santi, Tenuta Greppo Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino, 2013
# 11 Sweet White Wines with Christmas Pudding
At the end of the year, our sweet white wine of choice is Sauternes, arguably the most famous and classic. Sauternes is more versatile than one would imagine (see some wonderful options below) but as its Christmas, let’s go with Christmas pudding. But if you can’t wait that long, we also recommend pairing it with a terrine of foie gras with persimmon compote, toasted brioche, and drizzled with honey. Plenty of options but we think it’s a “must have” at Christmas.
Typical blends and styles
The standard blend in Sauternes is 80% Semillon with 20% Sauvignon Blanc, sometimes with a soupçon of local Muscadelle for floral aromatics. Semillon tends to produce richly textured white wine with relatively low acidity, which is in the classic Sauternes blend then complemented by Sauvignon Blanc lively freshness. In fact, only Chateau Climens in Barsac make an unblended wine from 100% Semillon.
These, arguably, the noblest sweet wines in the world, are made by several walks through the vineyard to harvest only the fruit which is perfectly affected by noble rot. In the cellar, new oak ageing is relatively common.
Typical aromas and flavours are orange marmalade, apricot, honey, tropical fruit, saffron spice, caramel, butterscotch.
Food Pairing
The exquisite wines from Sauternes and Barsac needn’t be limited to pudding after dinner but suit other parts of the meal, or simply a beautiful glass to relax with on a winter’s afternoon by the fire. Sauternes pairs well with a variety of fruit desserts, such as peach, pineapple, and nectarine, while also working well with crème brulee and rich pastry dishes; at the end of the year, we love pairing a luscious Sauternes with Christmas pudding, buche de noel, or even minced pies. Sauternes is a delicious pairing for pan-fried or terrine of foie gras, whether served on its own or as part of for example a Tournedos Rossini main course, while also working wonders alongside blue cheese such as Roquefort or Stilton.
Whether for Christmas or the New Year celebrations, Sauternes works surprisingly well with honey-glazed lobster with roasted quince or meaty white fish, like dover sole or monkfish, with baked nectarines, aromatic herbs, and an olive oil/ honey dressing. Wagyu, duck, honey glazed pork, and cooked sweet vegetables such as sweet potato, pumpkin, and chestnuts also work well. Young vintages are a delicious aperitif, and any vintage works well as a post dinner drink served alongside for example candied rose petals or cinnamon/chocolate cantuccis.
Sweet white wines, including Sauternes, tend to be best served between12-14°C.
Our teams favourite pairings with Sweet White Wine at Christmas are:
Kathrine Larsen MS - “I love a luscious glass of aged sauternes with pecan pie – there is something about the saffron flavours of the wine that just really accentuates the nuttiness of the pecan pie while the rich texture complements the buttery pastry.”
James McCormac - “I can’t choose just one, Sauternes is that special. A revelation for me was my first taste of sauternes with Roquefort and separately foie gras many years ago. Splash out on a half bottle if you must but don’t miss it.”
William Kelley - “A lover of sweet white wine and in particular the more floral styles, I enjoy pairing it with crème brûlée as it allows the citrus and tropical notes of the wine to really play off the density of the caramel.”
Our recommendations are:
Value option
1. Ch. Suduiraut, Premier Cru Classe, Sauternes, 2011
'Just right' option
2. Ch. Climens, 1st Growth Premier Cru Classe, Barsac, Half Bottle, 2005
'Push the boat out' option
3. Ch. D'Yquem, 1st Growth Premier Cru Superieur Classe, Sauternes, 2015
# 12 Vintage Port with a Cheese Plate
At the end of the year, we recommend pairing Vintage Port with a nice cheese plate, including Stilton and mature cheddar. You can’t go more traditional at this time of the year.
Typical blends and styles
Vintage port is the Douro region’s flagship fortified wine and produced from a single vintage in a year when growing conditions are exceptional. The most prestigious and expensive style of port, Vintage port accounts for a fraction of all port sold(less than 1%). Only grapes from the Douro’s best vineyards, and picked at optimal ripeness, are blended after spending between 18 and 36 months in wood and are then bottled without filtration. It is then the buyer/consumer’s role to “mature” Vintage port in their own cellars. Generally, Vintage port is thought to reach maturity at around 10 years old, and then to develop further over 30-40 years, with the finest examples having been known to develop beyond 50 years.
More than 80 different grape varieties are authorised to make red port, but today, generally the five key varieties and those referred to when the term ‘port blend’ is used are Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Cao.
Typical aromas and flavours are black stone fruits, baking spices, clove, cinnamon, dates, raisins, dark chocolate.
Food Pairing
Vintage port is a classic wine for meditation and as such is often enjoyed on its own. Classic food matches, especially around Christmas, include blue cheese, such as Roquefort and Stilton, but also mature cheddar and a variety of other mature hard cow’s milk cheeses. Also at Christmas time, Vintage Port complements Christmas cake well, as well as other desserts with dried fruits and nuts, fresh medjool dates, and a variety of chocolate desserts. Or just to warm up with after a brisk walk on Christmas Day.
Vintage Port tends to be best served between 18 - 20°C. Because it is bottled without filtration, Vintage port throws a lot of deposit and thus should be decanted before being served.
Our teams favourite pairings with Vintage Port at Christmas are:
Kathrine Larsen MS - “I once had a chocolate fondant with pears marinated in red wine with cloves/ cinnamon along with a 2000 Vintage Port , the liveliness yet deep spice flavours of the pear really elevated the wine while the deeply flavoured and richly textured fondant complemented the richness and structure of the port.”
James McCormac - “I can’t go past Vintage Port and a cheese board, I really should taste Port more often but it seems indulgent yet obligatory at Christmas - seal anything not drunk well and it will last for a few days of the holiday. Dow, Taylors and Quinta do Noval of a good year have never disappointed. Last year a friend brought a 1970 Dow to table – sublime.”
William Kelley - “Cropwell Bishop cheese with walnuts and red grapes paired with Vintage Port - delightful.”
Our recommendations are:
Value option
1. Dow's, Vintage Port, 2000
'Just right' option
2. Taylor's, Vintage Port, Vintage Port, 2011
'Push the boat out' option
3. Taylor's, Vargellas Vinha Velha, Vintage Port, 2011