The producer
Is Tondonia the heart and soul of Rioja? The bodega was built in 1877, the oldest extant in Haro, and one of the three oldest in Rioja. The estate’s vineyards now cover nearly 300 hectares in prime locations high in the Rioja vignoble.
The top of the range includes Vina Bosconia with a Reserva and Gran Reserva from the El Bosque vineyards, and Vina Tondonia, which includes both white and red Reserva and white, red, and rose Gran Reserva. All Gran Reserva wines are only from the best vineyards and selected as such by a panel of family members at eight years of age and kept for a further ten years in bottle before release. Extraordinary stuff!
The wine
Vina Gravonia is sourced from the 24-hectare Vina Zaconia vineyard, located by the Ebro River near the town of Haro in Rioja Alta. Made from 30–40-year-old Viura vines, this monovarietal wine ferments in 150-year-old oak vats, followed by 4 year’s ageing in 8- to 10-year-old American oak barrels, with racking twice a year. Complex is the first word that springs to mind, between the honey, ripe mirabelles, beeswax, truffle and candied lemon it is hard to put a word to all of Gravonia’s aromas and flavours. The palate is full with a silky texture yet has a firm structural lift that leads into a very long length.