The producer
The largest family-owned Champagne house with a wealth of owned vineyards (nearly 250ha) two-thirds of which are Grand Cru. But the revolution of Roederer is initially in the vineyard with organic and biodynamic principles spreading across the holdings. Chef de cave Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon has steered Roederer through this learning curve for twenty years introducing changes in the vineyards and adopting an approach he calls “a la carte winemaking” in the cellar.
All wines from vintage level up are now made from estate fruit and even the non-vintage wine exceeds 50% ensuring the quality desired throughout the range. The aim is for full ripeness to ensure a clear expression of each vineyard before the blending process begins. Louis Roederer may have lagged behind its reputation last century but is now at the forefront of Champagne houses with a continual philosophy of further improvement which shows in all wines from non-vintage to the prestige Cuvee Cristal.
The wine
Louis Roederer’s ‘Collection’ cuvee replaced tbe flagship wine ‘Brut Premier’ from the 2021 vintage, in a “fight for freshness” as cellar master, Lecaillon, says. Collection is always a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier sourced from Roederer’s own grand and premier cru vineyards. The ‘242’ edition is based on the 2017 vintage, with the addition of reserve wines aged in oak and steel vats – the steel aged component is thought to preserve freshness in the blend. The wine is then aged on lees for minimum 3 years. The initial collection number represents the number of times Roederer have made a multi-vintage blend since the house was founded in 1776. Collection is a champagne of immense purity of fruit, with floral complexity and buttery pastry depth; the stony and citrus freshness leads into a long length.