The producer
Although dating back pre-Revolution, the Volnay-based estate, named de Montille, was formed in 1863 with substantial holdings of famous vineyards the length of the Cote d’Or. Over the decades vineyards were sold off so Hubert de Montille inherited barely three hectares of – luckily - the best vineyards of Volnay and a little Pommard Rugiens in 1947. Hubert was passionate about his vineyards adding parcels when they became available. He also commenced bottling his own wines, and wines made in a fashion that he wanted – terroir-driven and individual at that time.
His son Etienne has driven the estate since 2001 adopting biodynamics and a cellar regime designed to add silk and sexiness to already wonderful wines. Now the estate has 35 hectares including, since 2005, a piece in Clos de Vougeot and another in Vosne-Romanee Grand Cru contender Les Malconsorts, neighbouring La Tache. The Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet was purchased in 2012 and the renovated cellars are now used by the estate. In Puligny-Montrachet, De Montille’s Premier Cru vineyards include Le Cailleret, Les Folatieres, Chalumeaux and La Garenne.
De Montille’s vineyards are a rollcall of the finest of the Cote de Beaune. In Volnay de Montille’s Premier Cru holdings are in Brouillards, Carelle, Champans, Mitans, and Taillepieds.
The wine
Le Cailleret is situated high on the hill, adjacent to Le Chevalier-Montrachet and Le Montrachet, and just above Les Pucelles. This prime location is unparalleled. The soil here is stony and nutrient-poor, which, combined with de Montille’s 70-year-old vines, results in an intensely steely wine. It is tight, mineral-driven, and exceptionally impressive, standing out even among a remarkable collection of whites.