The producer
Michel Gaunaux seems out-of-kilter with modern Burgundy. Current practice sees wines assessed in barrel and sold often before even being bottled, certainly before being tasted as a finished product. Domaine Michel Gaunaux – now run by children Anne and Alexandre – does not release wines until they deem, they are ready, at least three years after harvest. Not fully mature by any means but without the edginess of extreme youth. They are one of very few estates to offer a range of older vintages.
Winemaking is also traditional, allowing the wines to speak of their provenance with grace and style … fine-grained wines with structure but perfume and fruit. The 5.85ha estate was founded in 1875 and remain in the same family, with the name from the father of the current generation who created the modern reputation for the wines. The wines include an often-stunning Grand Cru Corton-Renardes, a Premier Cru Pommard blended from small holdings in three vineyards, and a value village Beaune that incorporates some Premier Cru material.
The wine
Michel Gaunoux is, with 1.76 hectares, the largest landowner in Les Grand Epenots. Fruit is destemmed and fermented in large wooden vats, and finally aged in small oak barrels, of which only 20% are new, for around a year before bottling. This is a broad-shouldered and red fruited wine, with rugged earthy complexity, firm tannins, and a lively finish.